Five Common Car Problems & How You Can Fix Them

Spark Plug Replacement

Don’t let the diagram fool you, this little sucker is not a complex job. You’ll know if you have a faulty spark plug as the idle will be rough/lumpy, and the start-up ignition might seem different and/or longer than before.

Never use a spark plug repair kit, these are often more expensive than the plugs themselves and it’s far safer and more methodical to just buy new plugs. They’ll often run you anywhere from a few dollars, to maybe $5-10 each, dependant on vehicle. Check with your local motor factors/store on which model goes on your vehicle.

Usually housed on the top of the engine block, under some sort of screw-pinned plastic trim, you’ll need to disconnect the HT leads or distributors first. This is usually just a pull-job or maybe a bolt. Always replace all the plugs, use your deep socket to take out the old ones.

Top tip: when chucking the new ones in don’t over tighten as this can snap the insulation above the hex nut, but make sure it’s good and firm. You’ll get a feel for it.

Continue on page 4 for more…

Oil Change

Obviously you shouldn’t undertake this one without the proper equipment to safely jack and keep a vehicle raised. It’s a little more technical than the rest, but still very workable. First off, buy the correct oil as advised by the manual/engine code, have a drain pan or large builder’s bucket to catch the old oil, and get a can of engine flush and a new oil filter too.

You’ll need to know how much oil your engine takes, where the sump and sump bolt are, and also follow the instructions on the can of engine flush. Loosen the sump bolt and catch the old oil and engine flush, tighten her back up, add the new oil and make sure to check the dipstick after it’s settled to ensure you haven’t over or under filled.

Once you are happy, take her for a spin for a mile or two to get the engine lubed up once again. You should be getting an oil change at around 3-5K miles or as advised by your car owner’s manual.